Is Ceramic Coating Worth It in the Pacific Northwest?
I get asked this one a lot: is ceramic coating actually worth it, or is it just a fancy wax? My honest answer, after coating cars all over the Eastside, is that for a lot of Pacific Northwest drivers it really is worth it. Not for everyone, though. Here's how I think about it, so you can decide what makes sense for your car.
What a ceramic coating actually is
A ceramic coating is a liquid that hardens (cures) on your car's surfaces and bonds with the clear coat. It goes on almost everything: paint, plastic trim, glass, headlights, taillights, and wheels.
Wax works differently. It sits on top of the paint and wears off, usually within a few months. That's why I send reminders to Level 1 customers to re-up the wax. A coating is harder, thicker, and lasts years instead of months. It also gives you UV protection and better resistance to chemical stains and light scratches than wax does.
Why our weather makes a strong case for it
Rain, rain, and more rain
From October through spring, our cars are wet more often than they're dry. On a coated car, rain beads up tight and rolls right off instead of sitting on the paint. That means the car actually stays cleaner longer, even when it's pouring.
Road film from I-405 and SR-520
If you commute on 405 or 520, you know the gray, greasy film that builds up on the paint and windows. On bare paint it sticks. On a coated car, the surface is so slick that most of that grime rinses or wipes right off during a wash.
Sap, bird droppings, and everything falling off our trees
Between the maples, the evergreens, and the birds, Eastside cars take a beating. A coating gives you a protective layer between that stuff and your clear coat, so you have more time to clean it off before it stains or etches.
Darker, wetter winters
Washing your car in December is nobody's idea of fun. A coated car is so much easier to wash that a quick rinse and a gentle hand wash goes a long way. Fewer long Saturday afternoons with a bucket.
What a coating won't do
I want to be upfront about this part, because it's where people get let down.
It won't fix scratches that are already there. A coating locks in whatever is underneath it. That's why I polish the paint first. A wax can hide or fill some scratches for a little while, but once it wears off, the scratches show again. Polishing actually removes them.
It's not bulletproof. It helps with light scratches and scuffs, but it won't stop rock chips, door dings, or deep scratches.
You still have to wash the car. It just makes washing a lot faster and easier.
A quick note on dealer "ceramic" add-ons
A lot of new cars come with a protection package from the dealer. From what I've heard, many of those are spray products that last a few months and then wear off. I can't speak to every brand, but here's an easy test: spray some water on the paint. If it forms tight little beads that roll off, there's still protection there. If the water sheets out flat and just sits, there probably isn't much left.
Picking the right level
Here's how my packages line up for paint protection (current pricing is on my pricing page, tax not included):
Level 1 Full Detail ($300 sedan/coupe, $340 SUV/truck, $400 XL truck). A great all-around clean with a hand-applied wax/sealant. Good if you want the car looking fresh and protected for a few months.
Level 2 Full Detail ($500 / $600 / $700). Everything in Level 1, plus a 1-step polish to remove small scratches, a 1-year ceramic coating on the exterior paint and plastics, rain repellent on the windows, and sap/tar removal. This is a really nice middle ground if you want to try a coating without the full commitment.
Level 3 Ceramic Detail ($1500 / $2000 / $2500). A 3-step cut, compound, and polish to truly restore the paint, then a ceramic coating with 3 to 5 years of protection. This takes about 9 to 12 hours and is the one I recommend if you plan on keeping the car.
So, is it worth it for you?
A coating is usually worth it if:
You plan to keep your car for a few years or more.
You park outside, especially under trees.
You just bought a new car and want to keep it looking that way.
You don't love washing your car and want it to stay cleaner between washes.
It might not be the right call if you're trading the car in soon, or if the paint needs body or paint repair first. In that case a Level 1 is totally fine, and I'm happy to tell you that.
How it works when I come to you
Exhibit is fully mobile, so I do coatings right at your home or office. Mobile ceramic coatings can be done up to 40 miles outside of Bellevue. You can read more on my ceramic coating page or the Bellevue ceramic coating page.
The process looks like this:
A full wash that strips old wax or sealant, then chemical decontamination and a clay bar.
An inspection for swirls, scratches, and water spots, so I can recommend the right amount of correction.
Polishing, then a prep wipe to remove any oils or polish residue.
Coating each panel, letting it flash, then leveling it off.
A high-spot check, and an overnight cure if possible.
A couple of things that help on your end: an electrical outlet within about 50 feet, and if the weather looks iffy, a garage or covered spot. The coating needs temperatures of at least 45 degrees to cure properly, so on cold or wet days I'll talk with you about timing ahead of time.
If you're in Kirkland and want a regular detail instead, here's more on my mobile auto detailing in Kirkland.
Not sure which one makes sense?
Just reach out. I'm happy to take a look at your paint and give you an honest recommendation, even if that's the cheaper option. You can book a time on my Calendly at calendly.com/exhibitautodetailing, call or text me at 206-963-7984, or email info@exhibitautodetailing.com. Whatever works best for you!
Thanks for reading, Jaisen
Written by Jaisen Ostrom, owner of Exhibit Auto Detailing, a fully mobile detailing and ceramic coating service based in Kirkland, WA.